Saturday, 28 April 2012

Howto: Grey knights Part 1 (Purity seals)

PURITY SEALS

The other day, I played a game of 40k. My opponent said that if I were to lose, I had to show him how I painted my GK so quickly.
Suffice to say, I lost. 

Hence, I will be doing a six part tutorial on my painting process.
The tutorial episodes will be:
1. Purity seals
2. base coating, model decisions. 
3. basic details, how to pick out details
4. Painting parts, putting the model together and picking out final details.
5. Painting the blade and basing
5a. materials. 
6. weathering the model

In addition, following the fifth tutorial, I will include a list of all the used materials during this process
Without further adieu, my process for painting purity seals. (with focus on the wax.) 
Please, I'm still using old citadel, if you are making the switch, plan accordingly. 

Colours needed: 

Blood red 
Blazing orange
Golden Yellow
Dheneb stone
Gryphonne Sepia

Brushes required:

Fine detail brush
Detail brush
Wash Brush

Difficulty: 

Simple

Skills needed:

Basic brushwork
Patience

Stage 1. Picking places

Find areas that will be the paper of the purity seals (note the book on the knight's shoulder - it is done in this same method.) Paint them Dheneb stone. 
Once this has dried, wash the colour with Gryphonne sepia. 

Outcome of Stage 1.

Stage 2: Picking Places: Reds

After the sepia has dried, paint over the grey seals with blood red. This will probably require two watered down coats of paint. Since you will have to wait for the paint to dry, it is acceptable to do all purity seals red layer at the same time. (the same can be said of every stage, in fact.)


 Stage 3: Painting orange

Luckily for you, the orange is going over red. that means there shouldn't be a need for more than two layers over red.  paint the edges of the seal in orange. if there is a skull, brush over it with the paintbrush a few times to get an appealing effect. At this time, you may want to consider painting 'writing' onto the seal if you see fit.


Stage 4: Painting yellow

This is the same as the last stage. It does require more finesse, however. If you plan to paint the skull on the seal, only go over it once. more than that and it will all become yellow. 

paint very lightly around the edges as well

Please, feel free to contact me if you have any further questions regarding the series, or any requests.
My e-mail is diaord@hotmail.com or you may reach me at www.dakkadakka.com under the persona Scipio Africanus. 

Thursday, 19 April 2012

Grey knights updated. The Storm Raven

In my last post I did an Expose on my grey knights army. In that time, a lot of progress has been made. While fundamentally the list hasn't changed, the painting scheme has been finalised and I'm ready to produce more models as I need to. 

What I realised with this 32 model + 7 tank army is that there aren't very many models to be built, that means every model has to be well done. As such, every model - including tanks - will be highlighted and every model - including infantry - will have some form of weathering done to it. 

Finally, I will give every model an authentic name. Every model and every pilot will have a part of a daemon's name in it - My first purifier squad will have three models - Magna, Imunde and Unum (If someone can give me the correct grammar for this phrase, I'd appreciate it.) - roughly, the 'Great Unclean one' 

Since this really should've been four or five posts, I'll go in order. 


Profile of the Storm Raven

Magnetized door. 

The storm Raven is fairly basic. The side doors remain and the guns will be magnetized. I left the front part of the thrusters and the missiles unglued so they could be removed when used/immobilised. In addition, the front hatch is unglued, magnetized instead. This can represent an immobilisation or just to aid in removing the front gun. 

The model has since been painted and weathered. The grey is just a spray paint of tamya german grey. Worked wonders, by the way. 


The right thruster. 

The left Thruster

The carbonisation on the vent exhausts and the front left
thruster. The thruster is detatchable.

Central intake exhaust dust

The gun is boltgin metal that has been painted in brown oil.
I then reduced the paint away until it remained in the recesses,
like a wash. 

Front view. Both open cockpits are fully painted. 

The multi-meltas are done in the same way as the assault-
cannon.

The thrusters after they have dried.

The thruster once it had dried. 

This is further work on them, the grey meant to be the metal
coming through because the heat burns away the debris.

It's hard to do this part justice - what is it meant to look like?
I just tried an oiled look, like the thing had a filmy coat of a
brown oil over it, in the hope that it would be enough. 


















In the next post, I'll show my first grey knights. They have been weathered so they look a little beaten up, but mostly just with mud on their legs.